咖啡舖子

巴布亞新幾內亞.瓦吉谷地.奇邁爾莊園AA
Papua New Guinea Wahgi Valley Kimel AA

□產區:瓦吉谷地(Waghi Valley)
□生產者:奇邁爾莊園
□海拔:1580公尺
□品種:Arusha,Blue Mountain,Catimor, Caturra,Mundo Novo,Typica
□處理法:傳統水洗處理
□等級:AA
□土壤:排水良好的火山地質
□採收期:3月~4月
□風味敘述:焦糖,奶油麵包,甘蔗汁甜感,葡萄柚酸質,糖漬金棗風味..
□巴布亞新幾內在印尼東邊,是標準的海島型氣候,位於赤道與南緯10度之間,有熱帶雨林火山岩和高原地形,海拔介於1,200-2,500公尺,是種植咖啡的天堂.當地的產量不大,總產量的85%都是由小農庭園栽培系統所生產,他們會加入當地合作社一起分享合作的處理設備,咖啡是巴國第二大出口量的農產品,足見可見咖啡產業對該國的重要性.由於咖啡品種與印尼不同,海拔也高於蘇門答臘,加上採用水洗處理,巴國咖啡的地域之味迥異於印尼的悶香與低沉,而有明亮,酸甜感,花果香氣.
奇邁爾莊園1974年由澳洲裔商人鮑比·吉布斯(Bobby Gibbs)成立,以與其毗鄰的河流(Kimel River)作為莊園名,目前共有432名主要來自 Opais部落的員工居住在此地.雖然莊主是外籍人士,但咖啡生產與莊園管理皆由當地的農民來負責.莊園內也提供了完善的教育機構與醫療設施.莊園內的咖啡樹皆採用遮蔭栽培,不但可以調節氣溫也降低過多的日照,當地農民在生產時也盡可能採用對環境不會造成負擔的做法,例如水利資源循環再利用,殘留漿果作為推肥等.莊園內栽種品繁多,從傳統的提比卡,波旁,到少見的藍山種皆有,讓這裡生產的咖啡更能夠抵抗各種病蟲害與天災,穩定品質的同時也為咖啡風味帶來了更多元素.

□Papua New Guinea AA Kimel
■Farm Description
Papua New Guinea occupies the Eastern half of the island it shares with the Indonesian province of Irian or simply Papua. There is very, very little organized coffee production from the Irian side. But the PNG highlands are planted with a variety of coffee types, with farms in both the large plantation model and many small-holder coffee gardens. PNG coffees can be a bit confusing: They are different from other Indonesian, Southeast Asian or Pacific Island types. All PNG coffees are wet-processed, which explains why they have a brighter, more acidic profile, and why some basic aspects of the cup are vaguely similar to Central America coffees. Most Indonesia coffees (Sumatra, and most Sulawesi) are "wet-hulled" which results in lower acidity, heavy body, and the funky "earthy" character. With PNG there can be a huge range of cup flavors from rustic, bulked Organic lots to Plantation coffees. The plantations are larger farms that have their own coffee-processing wet mills, so they are able to control all the variables of production better than the small-farm coffee gardens. That is where the Kimel farms are rather interesting. Kimel has their own wet mills like a plantation, but is actually a group of farms centered around the main 620 hectare plantation. Kimel is cooperatively-owned by the indigenous Opais peoples of the Wahgi Valley. In a sense, it is a private cooperative, and mainly due to excellent altitudes and decent quality control at the mill, the coffee has a vibrant brightness while retaining some unique PNG origin characteristics. Also interesting is the fact Kimel is comprised of more cultivars than you can count on one hand, a mixed salad of green coffees: Typica, Arusha, Blue Mountain, Mundo Novo, Catimor, Caturra, and probably more! This indicates that, while buyers and sellers like to represent coffees being of one or two cultivars, in reality farmers tend to plant some on any type that comes along, a way of hedging your bets in case any particular cultivar doesn't pan out. Kimel is broadly available since Royal Coffee sells it, but there is a good range of quality from lot to lot, grade to grade.
■Cupping Notes
This particular AA lot is extremely nice, better than any of the Peaberry lots this harvest. The dry fragrance is sweet, laced with orange fruit notes, especially vibrant at City+ roast. The Kimel AA comes to life in the wet aroma. Adding hot water to the grinds and sweet layers of orange marmalade emerge, with a hint of pear and cinnamon accents. I was impressed how the clean brightness is stable through all the roast ranges. City+ roast has apple and apricot flavors as well as floral touches (honeysuckle). It's quite vibrant and high toned at this roast level, perhaps not what people think of from Indonesia coffees but if you like our wet-processed Sulawesi offerings you will appreciate the lighter touch on the Kimel AA. While the darkest roast I tested did not breach into 2nd crack; sarsaparilla and spice domintate, but it has some slight piney-foresty tastes, hinting at its origin as a near-Indonesia coffee. In between these two roast extremes, the cup was very balanced, possessing ample sweetness, fruit, and spice in the finish.
■Roast Recommendations
City roast works well for the brightest cup, but needs a good 48+ hours rest after roasting. Otherwise, City+ to Full City. Kimel AA was remarkably stable in terms of brightness and cup flavors.
(圖文彙整/咖啡舖子;部分圖文資料摘自http://www.coffeeshrub.com/shrub/coffee/papua-new-guinea-aa-kimel)